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STOLEN GODS OF HIMALAYAS

Up in the Greater Himalayas, more than 10,000 feet above sea level, lies one of the oldest monasteries of Lahaul valley, the Guru Ghantal. Founded by legendary Buddhist mystic Padmasambhava, this eighth century gompa has recently added another item to its treasure-house - a lock. Like priests of other ancient temples scattered all over Himachal Pradesh, the monks at Guru Ghantal know that the gods are no longer safe is the state - not as long: as smugglers of antique idols continue to operate in the region. So, they have placed the white marble head of the Guru Ghantal, installed centuries ago by Padmasambhava himself, under lock and key.

Their fears are not misplaced. On record, around 20 idols have been stolen from various temples in the state since 1990. The locals say the number is much more. In the last 20 years, over 200 idols and antique objects have been stolen from Himachal. Their value would run into billions.

Temples in Kinnaur, Chamba, Bharmaur and Lahaul-Spiti are particularly vulnerable, officials of the Himachal government say. Some of these places of religious and historical significance date back to the 5th or the 6th century and house idols that cost s crores, they add. While the locals are not aware of the value of these antiques, they have vital information that can make the smugglers’ job easier. The masterminds, who are often from outside the state, exploit this information and with the connivance of the locals, manage to steal the antiques.

IDOL TALES

Officials in the government allege that valuable idols had been disappearing from the state for years now, sometimes with the knowledge of and at other times with the active involvement of police and administrative officials. But these rampant thefts hit the officials in the face when the idol of the Chungraj deity disappeared from Kamru Temple in the tribal Kinnaur district in 1993.

Amid outraged protests from locals, it was learnt that the idol, believed to cost several crores in the illegal international market, had been shipped off to Italy. The Italian then accused of smuggling the idol out of the country denied it in a letter to the Himachal authorities. His Delhi-based partner later gave an assurance that the idol would be brought back from Italy and on a given date and time, left in the lawns of Himachal Bhawan in Delhi.

 

On the set date, when the officials searched the lawns, lo behold, they found the idol. No witnesses, no questions. A quick k check and the antique sculpture was reinstalled at the temple. And the preposterous story was accepted.

But not all are satisfied. There are still questions on whether this really is the genuine idol or a fake. How the idol disappeared in the first place, how it was shipped out of and then brought back to the country with such ease is also anybody’s guess. The matter has since been raised in the Himachal assembly twice. Meanwhile, one person was declared a proclaimed offender, and another was convicted in the case. The local court, however, acquitted seven other accused, including the Italian resident. The government has filed an appeal in the state high court.

Despite the apparent pressures to crack a whip against such smugglers, thefts continue. Earlier this year in May, the police recovered three precious-metal idols of the area’s ruling deity, Mahasu, from the nearby forests of Dunnu village in Solan. The 250-year-old idol is worth crores of rupees.

Last February, a 1,100-year-old Ganesha idol was stolen from the courtyard of the Hatkoti temple, about 100 km from Shimla. A police official said the professional manner in which the eight-armed, two-feet high, 22kg stone idol was stolen appeared to the handiwork of international smugglers.

Last year, also in February, 11 antique ashtdhatu idols were stolen from the temple of Chohag deity in Madhok village. The same year in October, the Himachal police and the Delhi Police Special Cell busted an international gang of antique smugglers and recovered two idols of the Kunzum goddess. The idols were stolen from the 15,500-foot-high Kunzum Pass in Lahaul-Spiti The gang was operating through a chain of middlemen.

Up in the remote areas of the hills, almost every village has an ancient temple, often unguarded. Most of these villages are now accessible to tourists and thus, exposed to thefts. Today, there is no telling how many of these places have already been targeted and are now housing fakes instead of a originals.

Though the Himachal government has registered about 200 ancient temples and some 300 antique idols, this is only a small portion of the state’s antique treasure.

The guardians of the temples and gompas have now become wary. Temple premises sealed after darshan and the keeper of the key is chosen with care.